Lettie Teague (WSJ) on Marius: “A New Wine in Town”

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From Lettie Teague’s blog for the Wall Street Journal, On Wine.

The charming, outrageous, outspoken Michel Chapoutier was in town a few weeks ago showing off a few wines. The acclaimed Rhone Valley winemaker is as known for his restless intellect as his geographic restlessness – he makes wines in many places outside the Rhone. One of his latest ‘outside’ projects is Marius, which debuts in the United States this week, after launching in in France last year.

But it’s not simply another new Chapoutier wine but “the vinous equivalent of the bistronomy movement of great French chefs,” Mr. Chapoutier said, referring to the Michelin-starred stars who decided to close down their gastronomic palaces in favor of simple bistros, where the food also happens to be very, very good.

Mr. Chapoutier has not closed down his ‘palace’ in the Rhone where he crafts Syrah-based wines that can cost in the mid-three figures, but has decided to make two wines for a much wider audience – wines that cost about $12 a bottle. The 2010 Marius white is a vin de pays wine made from Vermentino and it’s a bright, minerally wine marked by refreshing acidity while the 2010 Marius red is a soft, approachable blend of Grenache and Syrah. The wines are named after his grandfather and the website features a photograph Marius as a young man and excerpts of some rather racy tales that are said to be ‘half-fanciful’ notions about Marius’ life.

It’s up to the reader to figure out which parts are fancy and which parts are fact, I guess. The wines, however, are real and good.

—Lettie Teague

Classic Quiche

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Classic Quiche

Serve with Belleruche White, Rosé, or Red.

Makes 32 servings

3 tablespoons butter, plus a little to grease the pan

2 large yellow onions, peeled, halved, and thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
4 eggs, beaten
1½ cups grated cheese, such as Emmentaler
½ cup pitted oil-cured green olives, sliced

Preheat the oven to 375°. Melt the butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook until the onions are soft and golden, about 20 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat.

Grease two 8-inch square baking pans with butter. Evenly spread half of the onions in each pan. Beat the cream and mustard into the eggs then spoon half of the eggs and cream over the onions in each pan. Sprinkle the cheese and olives over the top of each and bake until golden and bubbling, about 30 minutes. Cool completely before cutting into 2-inch squares.

Recipes and print-quality photography are available for reprint upon request. For media inquires, comments, or questions, please click here to email Mary Anne Sullivan, Director of Public Relations (European Portfolio), Terlato Wines International.

Gougères

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Gougères

Makes about 36 little puffs

Serve with Belleruche White, Rosé, or Red.

These little golden cheese puffs are the perfect accompaniment to a glass of wine.

Make up the batter earlier in the day then pop them in the oven as your guest arrive and they’ll be ready just as you are raising your first glass!

The ideal finger food.

A classic of French cuisine.

The perfect way to start any party.

½ cup water
½ cup milk
8 tablespoons butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
1 cup grated gruyère cheese

Preheat the oven to 400°. Bring the water, milk, and butter to a boil in a heavy medium pot over high heat. Season generously with salt and pepper. When the butter has melted, remove the pot from the heat and dump in the flour all at once. Use a wooden spoon to beat the flour into the milk until it all comes together in a solid mass. Return the pot to the heat and continue stirring for about 1 minute to “dry-out” the mixture.

Remove the pot from the heat. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating to incorporate each egg into the flour mixture before adding the next. The dough will be very shiny. Stir in the cheese. Drop the dough by tablespoons, about 1-inch apart, onto cookie sheets. Bake until puffed and golden, about 20 minutes.

Recipes and print-quality photography are available for reprint upon request. For media inquires, comments, or questions, please click here to email Mary Anne Sullivan, Director of Public Relations (European Portfolio), Terlato Wines International.